There’s nothing more adorable than watching bear cubs attempt to catch salmon alongside a river.

I headed to Vancouver Island last fall, where I saw my very first grizzly, followed by 11 more while exploring Orford Bay. Going beyond Victoria to the island’s northern and eastern reaches, I found more ways to connect with nature than I could possibly fit into one trip: sea otters, whale watching, grizzly viewing, swimming with seals, and hiking out to San Josef Bay.

The entire experience was a dream. But it also taught me that understanding this place means understanding the First Nations people who have cared for its land, wildlife, and waters for thousands of years.

Here’s how to explore Vancouver Island through its wildlife and the people who protect it.

-Kelsey Wilking, newsletter editor

Just outside Vancouver, ocean, rainforest, and mountains blend into the Infinite Coast, a stretch best explored slowly. Summer brings long sailing days; fall delivers world-class whale and bear viewing; winter turns moody for coastal storm-watching.

Some corners are reachable only by boat, floatplane, or on foot, and the payoff is remote wilderness, wildlife, and Indigenous experiences you won't find anywhere else in North America.

At just 101 miles from Vancouver to Pemberton, the Sea-to-Sky Highway isn't a long drive, but it may be one of the most beautiful stretches of road anywhere. It winds past beaches, waterfalls, and glacier-capped peaks, with views so good you'll gasp even from the passenger seat.

Here are the best places to stop on a summer or fall run.

New England tends to hog the fall spotlight, but Victoria, BC, deserves a look. Cycling routes and leaf-canopied trails pair with the region's world-class restaurants, wineries, and breweries, and the color runs through mid-November. Just pack a rain jacket, and plan a warm meal for after a long day in the woods.

On Vancouver Island's west coast, Tofino trades city bustle for surf breaks, old-growth rainforest, and some of the best storm-watching in North America. It's tiny, remote, and exactly the kind of place people come to slow down and get outside.

Get off the grid and on the water. From floating lodges to remote coastal hideaways, these wilderness resorts pair world-class fishing with solitude, stewardship, and serious Pacific Northwest atmosphere.