Take Me There: Athens

'It's a Fine Time to Eat in Athens': Diane Kochilas on the City’s Delicious Evolution

Your restaurant guide to Athens

Where to Eat in Athens, According to One of Greece’s Most Influential Culinary Voices

For a city that’s been around for some 3,400 years, Athens hasn’t lost much of its global travel appeal. There’s so much history to explore in the birthplace of democracy, but these days, the food can be just as much of a draw. Diane Kochilas, Greece’s leading culinary voice on the global stage, knows this better than anyone. She’s lived in the city for more than 30 years, and has spent decades writing books, hosting a PBS show, and teaching people about Greek cuisine. Her latest book, “ATHENS: Food, Stories, Love: A Cookbook,” is all about food in the capital city — the traditional, the avant garde, and the intriguing blend of both.

The next generation of Athens chefs have “little of the emotional attachment to traditional foods that my generation has,” Kochilas tells me. “I see a mixing and matching of Greek regional specialties in the same plate, of ingredients we’d never imagined could be part of the cuisine.”

Finding something off the tourist map in Athens isn’t easy with an all-time high of more than 15 million people flying into Athens in the first half of 2025 alone. Sometimes it’s less about finding a “hidden gem” and more about knowing how to approach even the most popular locations.

These are the neighborhoods every food lover should visit, the markets to see, and the restaurants to enjoy. And if you’re looking for a full breakfast-lunch-dinner itinerary, Kochilas shared that, too.

Travel hungry,

Nickolaus Hines, managing editor

Nickolaus Hines, managing editor

The Dish

For a taste of modern Athens: Melitzanosalata (roasted eggplant dip) with miso
For a taste of old Athens: Noua (pot roast) with mashed potatoes, or artichokes a la polita, or Athinaiki salata (grouper with boiled vegetables and homemade mayo)

The Market

Central Market: “Head to the little meze place across Koralis Fish Market for a very local experience, or to Epirus in the market for tripe soup or the chicken soup. Meander through the fish market just to get an understanding of the sheer variety and how important fish is to the Greek diet,” Kochalis says. “The meat market is definitely not a sugar-coated experience either, so be prepared for a bit of culture shock!”

The Street

Athinas Street: This 19th-century artery “stands out for its bustling markets, the remarkable variety of traditional and regional Greek products, and its proximity to downtown’s best spice shops, honey purveyors, and both classic and contemporary eateries,” Kochalis says.

The Restaurant Guide

“It’s a fine time to eat in Athens,” as Kochlis put it. Whether it’s breakfast on the go or a fine dining dinner, these 10 places are the spots Kochlis recommends going to if you only have a long weekend in the city.

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